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Inside
a Turkey Factory
Jim
Mason, Farm
Sanctuary News
Winter 1997
A
friend heard an advertisement on the local radio about
the Butterball Turkey Company needing workers in artificial
insemination, called "AI" for short. So I went
to the personnel office across the street from the turkey
killing plant in this small midwestern town. Latinos, Asians
and poor whites filled the waiting room. Everybody wore rubber
boots and big, puffy white hairnets‹both men and women.
"Bob," the AI boss, explained that the modern
turkey business is about the "most high-technical" of
all the animal operations. "The turkey is a creation
of modern science and industry," he said. "It's
been out of the wild only about 100 years, the last animal
to be domesticated. Because of that wildness, it tends to
go broody, which means it lays a few eggs once a year and
quits. We have to trick it into laying all the time."
Bob
told me that the company's birds are much
bigger and more clumsy than the original turkey — so
much so that they can't breed by themselves anymore.
So the company has to use AI to produce the fertile eggs
that hatch the chicks who then go into "grow-out" houses
and grow up to be slaughtered and processed.
The
Butterball Turkey Company is a division of ConAgra Turkey
Co., a division of ConAgra Poultry Co., a division of ConAgra,
Inc. of Omaha, NE (the agribusiness conglomerate). They
hired me. I reported for work at 4:45 a.m. I was told
to go with "Joe" and his crew. Joe grunted at me,
then barked, "Follow me in your car." Down
a gravel road, the lights of a turkey building glowed ahead.
We parked. Joe handed me a dust mask and grunted something.
When I didn't move, he yelled, "Get a hold of this and
help me take it in." It was the insemination machine,
about the size of a TV set. As we walked toward the building,
a worker came out and pitched two dead birds out the door.
Inside
the building, I saw a sea of white hens. (Three thousand,
I was told later.) The flock was divided in half by a double
row of metal "nests" down
the middle of the building. From these nests, a row of
conveyer belts carried eggs.
Joe
did not explain the work to come, nor did he introduce
me to the other crew members — all
silent, surly-looking white men in their 20s. They set
up the AI machine quickly and went to work.
Two
men herded birds a hundred or so at a time into a makeshift
pen along one side of the house. From there, these "drivers" forced
5-6 birds at a time into a chute, which opened onto a 5x5-foot
concrete-lined pit sunken into the floor of the house. Three
men worked belly-deep in the pit: Two grabbed birds from
the chute and held them for the third, Joe, the inseminator.
They
put me to work first in the pit, grabbing and "breaking" hens.
One "breaks" a hen by holding her breast down,
legs down, tail up so that her cloaca or "vent" opens.
This makes it easier for the inseminator to insert the tube
and deliver a "shot" of semen.
Breaking
hens was hard, fast, dirty work. I had to reach into the
chute, grab a hen by the legs, and hold her, ankles
crossed, in one hand. Then, as I held her on the
edge of the pit, I wiped my other hand over her rear, which
pushed up her tail feathers and exposed her vent opening.
The birds weighed 20 to 30 lbs., were terrified, and beat
their wings and struggled in panic. They were very strong
and hard to hold.
With
the hen thus "broken," the
inseminator stuck his thumb right under her vent and pushed,
which opened the vent and forced the end of the oviduct
a bit. Into this, he inserted the semen tube and released
the semen. Then both men let go and the hen flopped away
onto the house floor.
The
insemination machine's job was to put a calibrated amount
of semen into small, plastic "straws" for
the inseminator. Each straw was about the size of a drinking
straw 3-4 inches long.
The
machine drew semen from a 6 cc. syringe and loaded the
straws one at a time. With the tip of a rubber hose, the
inseminator took a straw, inserted it in the hen, and gave
her a shot. Routinely,
rhythmically, like a well-oiled machine, the breakers and
the inseminator did this over and over, bird by bird, until
all birds in the house had run through this gauntlet.
The
semen came from the "tom house" where the
males are housed. Here "Bill" extracted the semen
bird by bird. He worked on a bench which has a vacuum pump
and a rubber-padded clamp to hold the tom by the legs. From
the vacuum pump, a small rubber hose ran to a "handset." With
it, Bill "milked" each tom. The handset was fitted
with glass tubes and a syringe body; it sucked semen from
the tom and poured it into a syringe body.
I
helped Bill for a while. My job was to catch a tom by the
legs, hold him upside down, lift him by the legs and one
wing, and set him up on the bench on his chest/neck, with
his rear end sticking up facing Bill. He took each tom,
locked his crossed feet and legs into the padded clamp,
then lifted his leg over the bird©ˆs head and neck to
hold him. Bill had the handset on his right hand. With his
left hand, he squeezed the tomˆs vent until it opened
up and the white semen oozed forth. He held the sucking end
of a glass tube just below the opening and sucked up the
few drops of semen. It looked like Half & Half cream,
white and thick.
We
did this over and over, bird by bird, until the syringe
body filled up. Each syringe body was already loaded with
a couple of cubic centimeters of "extender," a
watery, bluish mixture of antibiotics and saline solution.
As each syringe was filled, I ran it over to the hen house
and handed it to the inseminator and crew.
Each
tom house contained about 400 males, 20 to a pen. The
toms are milked once or twice a week until they are about
64 weeks old (16 months), by which time they can weigh up
to 80 lbs. The hens are inseminated usually once, sometimes
twice a week, for about a year. When these breeding birds
reach the end of their cycle, they are killed and turned
into lunch meat, pot pies, and pet food.
The
inseminator crew did two houses a day‹6,000 hens
a day. Figuring a 10-hour day, that©ˆs 600 hens
per hour, ten a minute. Two breakers did 10 hens a minute,
or each breaker broke 5 hens a minute —- one hen every
12 seconds.
This pace pressured the drivers to keep a steady flow of
birds in the chute to supply the pit. Having been through
this week after week, the birds feared the chute and balked
and huddled up. The drivers literally kicked them into the
chute. The idea seemed to be to terrify at least one bird,
who squawked, beat her wings in panic, and terrified the
others in her group. In this way, the drivers created such
pain and terror behind the birds that it forced them to plunge
ahead to the pain and terror they knew to be in the chute
and pit ahead.
The crews worked at this pace from 5 a.m. until 2 p.m.,
when I left. They had two more hours of work to finish off
the second hen house. That's 11 hours at a stretch with no
formal breaks. No morning breakfast, no lunch hour. The only
breaks came by chance, when a machine malfunctioned or when
the semen syringes were slow to come.
At
about 12 or 1, the bad-tempered Joe got suddenly generous
after yelling and barking orders all day and bought everyone
a "sody." He was
not our buddy, but our paternalistic leader. We got to
sit outside among the swarms of flies buzzing over a pile
of dead birds and drink cokes for 10 to 15 minutes while
Joe and another guy ran an errand.
I
asked the least belligerent co-worker about the workload
and the pace, the no-breaks routine. He told me that the
crews are given 30 minutes off for lunch, but that his
crew (under Big Bad Joe) worked through this lunch break
in order to get paid for the time. These guys worked at
this pace 10 to 12 hours straight without a break or a
bite to eat just to get another $3 on their paychecks. I
put up with this for a day because I thought I might learn
lots of secret stuff from the crews. Fat chance. Nobody
talked. Nobody talked about anything. The few times I tried
to make conversation, all I got was surly, glowering looks
and a grunt or two.
I have never done such hard, fast, dirty, disgusting work
in my life. Ten hours of pushing birds, grabbing birds, wrestling
birds, jerking them upside down, pushing open their vents,
dodging their panic-blown excrement, breathing the dust stirred
up by terrified birds, ignoring verbal abuse from Joe and
the others on the crew-- all of this without a break or a
bite to eat (not that I could have eaten anything amongst
all this).
Working under these conditions week after week (Bill had
been there for four years), these men had grown callous,
rough, and brutal. Every bird went through their merciless
hands at least once a week, week after week, until they were
loaded up to be killed.
Jim
Mason is co-author with Peter Singer of Animal
Factories: What Agribusiness is Doing to the Family Farm and
also the author of An
Unnatural Order: Uncovering the Roots of Our Domination
of Nature and Each Other. Please visit his
web
site.
For more information on this issue, visit LINKS GALORE,
PICTURE GALLERY, WHAT YOU CAN DO, and BOOKS.

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